Feeding Of ChicksThis article is to advise on the feeding of chicks Why do budgies need a supplementary diet during breeding? The crop milk fed to chicks in the first few days of their lives consists of proteins and fats. A normal seed diet lacks in adequate protiens and fats for the hen to make crop milk. Although a hen can provide crop milk while only fed on a seed diet she will have to be drawing on the inferior fats and proteins from her own body tissues and converting them to adequate enough resources to feed the chicks which will result in her losing condition. Chicks whose parents have only been fed seed may develop brittle feathers and not grow to full potential. Hens struggling to feed chicks on a diet lacking in the essentials to make crop milk may even break their last fertile eggs just before they hatch. It is therefore important to get the parents used to supplementary food prior to breeding. Nowdays we are lucky enough to be able to buy ready made dried eggfood to supplement the parents with. It contains all the necessary vitamins and minerals and protein needed to feed the chicks. However it may not be containing enough fats so these can be supplemented by feeding soaked groats (hulled oats) mixed with the egfood. Raw grated veg may be added to the eggfood. In some countries it is hard to obtain ready made eggfood and calcium sources. For anyone having trouble finding it a homemade mix can be made. Hardboiled eggs mixed with various cooked and mashed or raw grated veg and alfalfa can be used. Even cooked meats and milk and cheese may be used as a calcium and protien source. Whole wheat and barley, rolled oats, beans, sweetcorn and brown rice and soybean meal can also be mixed with the boiled eggs. Dry dogmeal may also be used if eggs are not availiable. The main base (75%) must be the boiled eggs or the dogmeal. To utilise the calcium given to our breeding birds, vitamin D3 is essential. If the birds are not in sunlight (the natural source of this) then a supplement must be given. UVB lights can be added to the birdroom to give vitamin D3, or otherwise a manufactured form needs to be provided in the food or water. Ready made eggfood provides D3 As the chicks grow they will be able to feed themselves a little. At this point (around 20 days) I would add some small pieces of millet spray to the nestbox. When cleaning the nestbox a handful of canary seed and niger seed can be put in as well. These are both easy for the chicks to dehusk and will help mum out if the older ones can manage this. Quite often a chick will venture out of the nestbox repeatedly when it is obviously too soon. One reason for this is that the hen may be cutting its feed back in order to encourage it to eat for itself. When you see this happen, replace the chick in the box but ensure there is some canary seed and millet for it to have a go at inside the box. Also start to put some loose sweetcorn nuggets and soaked groats on the cage floor along with a scattering of seed and eggfood. This is a time to add a small dish of water on the cage floor and just dip the chicks beak in to show it where it is. A dehydrated chick will drop all its flight feathers. Also place a chick hide on the cage floor. It will offer protection from the parents and help keep the chick feel secure and warm. Once all the chicks are out of the nestbox the hen and cock should continue to feed them. Often you will see one chick feeding another. At this stage a plentiful supply of eggfood (for protein vits and minerals), soaked groats (for fat content) and seed (for carbs) must be left on the floor for them. Sweetcorn nuggets and peas are easy for them to eat and full of vitamins. I start to give millet grass and grass seeds and stems to pick at as well. It teaches them to accept veg matter which is vital for good health in their adult life. You will notice at this point the chicks will start to lose weight. This is normal as their increased activity and poor eating skills will have this effect. If possible keep the parents with them until 8 weeks old. This however is not always possible if they are having a second round or are showing aggression towards the chicks. In which case it is handy to have an older male which can go in with the chicks to show them how to eat properly. Unless absolutely vital (such as in the case of violence towards chicks) they shouldn't leave the parents until their flight feathers are fully grown. Around 6 weeks. I'm sure there are many variations that people use in the feeding of their chicks which work equally as well as this. However this is just a basic rundown of what I do with mine and I hope it is of some help to someone:) I have realised while being a part of a couple of forums that many people live in situations where the readymade feeds and supplements are not availiable. On the whole, budgies are not too different from us. If their diet is varied and from healthy sources they will thrive. Many of the foods we have in our kitchens and fridges can be used instead of the modern ready made feeds. In the war people still managed to keep their aviary birds breeding with success without the usual resources they were used to. So with good knowlege of their requirements their needs can be met under any circumstances :) ===========Resource Box=========== Nat Lofts keeps and breeds pet budgerigars. Contact her for help and advice via the Adorable Budgies Forum http://adorablebudgies.co.uk/forum ==================================== This article is available for reprint in your opt-in ezine, web site or ebook. You MUST agree not to make any changes to the article and the RESOURCE BOX MUST be included. (c) Nat Lofts All Rights Reserved |
All images Copyright © 2008. All Rights Reserved
Images may not be reproduced in any way, shape or form without the express permission of their respective owners.
Contact | | Terms of Service | | Privacy Policy